Welcome to Ahead Loft Ladders

Installation time can vary depending on a number of factors:

• The type of ladder chosen (wood/metal/electric etc.)
• How easy the attic space is to access
• The condition and position of the loft hatch
• Whether electrical connection is required

In general, with no surprises during the process, we expect a standard loft ladder installation to take around 2-3 hours.

If alterations are required to the loft hatch size or electric wiring is required, this can extend the amount of time required.

For most loft board installation jobs, we can be finished in 1-2 days.

Some boarding projects may take longer, if we have to carry out additional tasks such as:

• Removing old boards
• Relocation of wiring
• Widenening loft hatch
• Adding insulation
• Installing loft windows
• Clearing obstacles

Older style loft ladders would often be a single solid ladder that slid up horizontally in-between the rafters. However those are rarely used these days, due to the space required and how cumbersome they are to handle.

Modern loft ladders use a folding, sectional or concertina construction, meaning they often don’t use much more footprint than the loft hatch itself.

Most automatic loft ladders are mains powered, so will not operate during a power outage. However there are some models that include a battery backup, suitable for 10-15 uses without external power.

A handful of models can also be operated manually if power is not available.

Speak to us about the available options and we can help select the right model for your needs.

This is a technique known as a ‘warm loft’, where the entire space is insulated to effectively become part of the house’s indoor heating area.

There are a few issues with this approach:

• Lofts require adequate ventilation to avoid damp issues, but a fully insulated loft does not allow for this without specialised systems to move the air and moisture
• A fully insulated loft will become part of your house’s ‘thermal envelope’, which will involve extra outlay, complication and heating costs
• Keeping your attic as a ‘cold loft’ ensures there a large insulating airgap between the upstairs of your house and the air outside
• It is false economy to create a ‘warm loft’ space just for storage – you would be better off putting your money towards a full loft conversion

In general we do not recommend a ‘warm loft’ unless you need the loft to become a habitable space.

No, it is important not to add floorboards right up to the edge of your loft space. You should stop at least 250mm from the corners.

This is because lofts get their ventilation from the soffits at the eaves, so blocking this area will restrict airflow and promote damp.

The far corners are also not particularly usable (unless you own a large amount of triangular shaped items!).

It is always advisable to close your tilting roof windows when there is a risk of rain.

You may not get any water ingress during light rain if the window is only slightly open, but the best approach to maintain airflow is to use the in-built air vents.

The automatic and solar windows from Velux have the option to detect rain and automatically close.

We always recommend at least 18mm thickness for most loft boards. This is suitable for nearly any item up that would be stored in a loft, up to 25kg per m².

22mm boards are also available if the gaps between your joists is over 400mm.

Any solid boards fitted to a loft should have at least a 50mm gap above your insulation.

This prevents the material from ‘bridging’ the gap and allowing condensation to form.

UK building regulations require loft insulation to have a total depth of 270mm for mineral wool (soft insulation). This is to ensure it achieves the recommended U-value* of 0.16 W/m²K.

High-performance insulation boards like PIR require less thickness (120-170mm) to meet the same U-value.

Insulation must not be placed right up to the eaves. Instead, leave a clear 50 mm air gap to allow adequate airflow and prevent damp retention.

*The U-value is a measure of how fast heat escapes through a part of the building. Lower numbers mean better heat retention.